There are several reasons to love this pizza joint. First, the relaxing setting: a terrace in the spacious grounds of Alliance Francaise. Second, the regular entertainment: Alliance has one of the best cultural events programmes in the city, and Nicolino overlooks the stage. And third, the magic combination of a real wood-fired oven and an Italian chef who knows how to use it.

Mamma Mia, the gold standard for pizza before Nicolino hit town, could never quite get its pimped-out oven to produce the singed, bubbled crust that connoisseurs crave. Here head chef Humberto Dettori and his team crank them out consistently. These are grown-up, authentic pizzas, with good cheese used sparingly and a sauce made of blitzed fresh tomatoes and little else. (If you’re hankering after US-style deep-dish pies with a rich, sweet sauce, soft base and generous mozzarella, your best bet is Eddy’s Pizza.)

Toppings are equally austere, sticking to a few well-paired flavours: try Boscaiola, with mushrooms, olives and garlic, or Ortolanna, with zucchini and peppers. You’ll also find a handful of tried-and-tested favourites like Four Seasons, Pepperoni and – cover your ears, purists – Hawaiian.

While pizzas are the undisputed star, Nicolino also offers a selection of alternate dishes, including lasagne, risotto and chicken milanese. There’s a small but ever-changing specials board, plus burgers and chicken skewers for those who don’t “do” pizza.

On event nights, arrive early or expect to wait for a table – though there are worse things in life than hanging out on Alliance’s lawn with a beer. When you do get seated, friendly, efficient staff give service that is comfortably above average for the city.

Nicolino is far from a budget option – pizza prices start in the high twenties – but if it’s the genuine article you’re after, there’s no other game in town.