Once you’ve negotiated the rather grim staircase – Heritage is situated above Noble House, a large Chinese restaurant south of Oxford Street – you’ll find yourself in easily the most upscale of Accra’s Indian restaurants, a far cry from the charmingly thrown-together feel of Khana Khazana or the chilled outdoor vibe of Tandoor. Though the space initially feels a little over air-conditioned and the acoustics are harsh, you get a feeling of quality once you sit down – there is ample space between tables, rich ornamental cloths sit under the glass tabletops and food is served in heavy copper dishes. They’re little things, but they make an impression.
Starters are particularly strong, with the paneer tikka liable to convert even the most committed carnivore; cooked to have a little bite without being overly firm, it has absorbed a complex spice mix beautifully – arguably better than the chicken counterpart, which is nevertheless stunningly presented on skewers in a deep copper pitcher. We’re also won over by delicious, light samosas, though less so by a huge platter of vegetable pakora that quickly become a repetitive slog.
Mains don’t quite keep pace, and it is largely the fault of poor meat rather than poor sauces. A chicken achari had a winning hot and sour kick, but the ‘prime cuts’ of bird were gristly – a problem every other main dish on the table shared, and a disappointment given that the meat used for grilled chicken starters was of good quality. Still, there are good, puffy naan breads to mop up the sauces, and service is prompt and friendly throughout. The starters from Heritage combined with the mains from Khana Khazana would give you Accra’s best Indian restaurant by a mile. If only life were that simple.
Expert Review
Once you’ve negotiated the rather grim staircase - Heritage is situated above Noble House, a large Chinese restaurant south of...
Once you’ve negotiated the rather grim staircase – Heritage is situated above Noble House, a large Chinese restaurant south of Oxford Street – you’ll find yourself in easily the most upscale of Accra’s Indian restaurants, a far cry from the charmingly thrown-together feel of Khana Khazana or the chilled outdoor vibe of Tandoor. Though the space initially feels a little over air-conditioned and the acoustics are harsh, you get a feeling of quality once you sit down – there is ample space between tables, rich ornamental cloths sit under the glass tabletops and food is served in heavy copper dishes. They’re little things, but they make an impression.
Starters are particularly strong, with the paneer tikka liable to convert even the most committed carnivore; cooked to have a little bite without being overly firm, it has absorbed a complex spice mix beautifully – arguably better than the chicken counterpart, which is nevertheless stunningly presented on skewers in a deep copper pitcher. We’re also won over by delicious, light samosas, though less so by a huge platter of vegetable pakora that quickly become a repetitive slog.
Mains don’t quite keep pace, and it is largely the fault of poor meat rather than poor sauces. A chicken achari had a winning hot and sour kick, but the ‘prime cuts’ of bird were gristly – a problem every other main dish on the table shared, and a disappointment given that the meat used for grilled chicken starters was of good quality. Still, there are good, puffy naan breads to mop up the sauces, and service is prompt and friendly throughout. The starters from Heritage combined with the mains from Khana Khazana would give you Accra’s best Indian restaurant by a mile. If only life were that simple.