Located on Ndidem Usong Iso Rd, Happy Food is easily spotted at night when its name flashes in fluorescent lettering onto the street. Inside is much more sedate: a large, barn sized space reveals exposed wooden beams, Chinese lanterns, hardwood furniture and a reproduction Chinese gate which dominates one end of the hall. It’s almost possible to forget which continent you are in.

The menu is very traditional, serving up real Chinese fare: lesser seen delicacies like preserved eggs and tripe alongside less-challenging beef, chicken, stir fry and soup dishes. There is also a large seafood selection including squid and crab, all sourced locally rather than flown in from South Africa like so many other Lagos restaurants. Slightly un-happily (excuse the pun) there is a range of ‘bush meat’ options on the menu, cooked in a Chinese style, including pangolin, snake and crocodile. I asked if all were available and was assured that ‘yes’ they were; given the dwindling numbers of some of these animals in their natural habitat, one would be well advised to avoid eating them.

On this basis, those looking for an alternative ask for the other Chinese restaurant, it is just around the corner, it has no name displayed, it’s simply the Chinese restaurant or ‘Bamboo Bar’ most taxi drivers will know it, it has a large outside space and even hosts live music on occasion.