Fumo is a relatively new upscale Italian restaurant in Pretoria. Despite seeing it several times while shopping in the Groenkloof Plaza where it’s located, I never really knew what it was until I read a positive review. From the outside, the second story restaurant is pretty non-descript and not much to look at. I would not have guessed it to be one of the top rated restaurants in Pretoria! Inside, the décor is a different story. Fumo is nicely decorated with a very European feel.

The food is obviously Italian and focuses on local, fresh South African ingredients with the necessities imported from Italy. The menu is fairly diverse for an Italian restaurant with the usual pizza and pasta options but a long list of seafood and meat dishes as well as risottos, tapas, and soups. I sampled a salad of baby spinach, goat cheese, grilled pancetta, and sundried tomatoes for a starter. For the main, I tried the spaghetti al frutti di mare (seafood pasta) with calamari, mussels, octopus, and clams in a garlic, cherry tomato, and white wine sauce. The portions were good and the food was tasty, but I didn’t think it was all that special considering the prices.

The main appeal of Fumo is its nice décor and atmosphere. It would be a great place for a business meeting and there were set menu lunch specials on offer combining a starter and main or a main and glass of wine. At lunch, the restaurant was pretty quiet, but there were several tables dining, so it didn’t feel empty. The wine cellar makes up part of the main dining room and is pretty impressive. Dinner I’m sure would be even more atmospheric. They also advertise a new cigar lounge hidden away upstairs where guests can enjoy cigars and cognacs, but it’s only open by membership.