Dynasty is one of a clutch of landmark restaurants on nightlife strip Oxford Street, as well-known – and, crucially, understood by taxi drivers – as Papaye and the nearby Frankies. Even so, its outward appearance offers few clues as to why it has become an institution; it is another large and unlovely concrete box, albeit with an entrance designed to nod to the China’s paifang gates.
Things improve inside. The small bar gives onto a spacious split-level dining area with hanging lanterns and tidy, well-dressed tables. Everything comes in a rather watery shade of pink – perhaps it was a bright, prosperity-bringing red when Dynasty opened some 20 years ago. If so, the faded colour has done nothing to dent the restaurant’s fortunes. Though prices are high, Dynasty does a roaring trade, and attracts Ghanaians as well as expats. Come on a Sunday and you’ll see it slowly fill up with big, dressy family groups fresh from a long church service. The mix of nationalities and ages gives it a lively atmosphere many of the city’s pricier restaurants lack.
The extensive menu focuses on Peking dishes, but aside from a few rarities like sea cucumber it contains little to dazzle aficionados of Chinese food; the majority of tables will be tucking into good renditions of crispy duck, beef in black bean sauce et al. For a more varied and interesting experience – plus the opportunity to enjoy that post-church atmosphere – come on a Sunday for the afternoon dim sum service, which includes excellent steamed pork buns, delicate shrimp dumplings and a sharp and succulent drunken chicken. Watch your wallet, though; it’s easy to let the cost mount up when you eat this way, and at 7 cedis for a small Club even the drinks prices are extortionate.
Expert Review
Dynasty is one of a clutch of landmark restaurants on nightlife strip Oxford Street, as well-known - and, crucially, understood...
Dynasty is one of a clutch of landmark restaurants on nightlife strip Oxford Street, as well-known – and, crucially, understood by taxi drivers – as Papaye and the nearby Frankies. Even so, its outward appearance offers few clues as to why it has become an institution; it is another large and unlovely concrete box, albeit with an entrance designed to nod to the China’s paifang gates.
Things improve inside. The small bar gives onto a spacious split-level dining area with hanging lanterns and tidy, well-dressed tables. Everything comes in a rather watery shade of pink – perhaps it was a bright, prosperity-bringing red when Dynasty opened some 20 years ago. If so, the faded colour has done nothing to dent the restaurant’s fortunes. Though prices are high, Dynasty does a roaring trade, and attracts Ghanaians as well as expats. Come on a Sunday and you’ll see it slowly fill up with big, dressy family groups fresh from a long church service. The mix of nationalities and ages gives it a lively atmosphere many of the city’s pricier restaurants lack.
The extensive menu focuses on Peking dishes, but aside from a few rarities like sea cucumber it contains little to dazzle aficionados of Chinese food; the majority of tables will be tucking into good renditions of crispy duck, beef in black bean sauce et al. For a more varied and interesting experience – plus the opportunity to enjoy that post-church atmosphere – come on a Sunday for the afternoon dim sum service, which includes excellent steamed pork buns, delicate shrimp dumplings and a sharp and succulent drunken chicken. Watch your wallet, though; it’s easy to let the cost mount up when you eat this way, and at 7 cedis for a small Club even the drinks prices are extortionate.