Entering Sasaab for the first time, with its Moorish arches, glimmering whitewash, Arabic-inspired tiles and filigree window frames, and you might be forgiven for thinking that you’d accidentally stumbled into an Arabian fantasy from the 1001 Nights. After you’ve rubbed your eyes to check you’re not dreaming, it’ll dawn on you that the reality of where you are is even better than the fantasy.

Sasaab comprises just nine rooms that could frankly rewrite the dictionary definition of luxurious. After all, when was the last time you could literally tumble out of bed and land directly in your very own private plunge pool from which you can look down onto a vast infinity pool, which in turn peers out across the muddy, crocodile-filled Ewaso Ng’iro river? Yeah, exactly. You’ve never done that.

The lodge is situated in the private West Gate Community Conservancy, a fabulous and remote slab of dry, thorn bush wilderness abutting the famous Samburu National Reserve. The conservancy, like all such places, works to combine the interests and desires of the local human community with that of the local wildlife, and a stay here directly aids that cause. This means that staying at Sasaab is as much about the people as the wildlife. The charming hosts encourage their guests to visit tiny Samburu communities and learn all about their vibrant culture. Bush walks are another staple of a stay here, and for our money they are the most rewarding way of seeing and experiencing the African landscapes. And when it comes to seeing classic large safari animals, Sasaab sits by an elephant migration route, and thanks to its riverside location, all sorts of wildlife is seen taking their chances with the crocs as they come for a drink. However, wildlife is less easily seen here than in Samburu National Reserve, meaning that many people end up driving 45 minutes to that reserve which, though not a major hassle, isn’t ideal either.

Aside from that little qualm, we can think of few places in Africa we would rather pass time than this beautiful lodge and conservancy.