Kilemakyaro’s wonderful setting – about 7km north of Moshi, on a cool, wooded hilltop with excellent views of Kilimanjaro – is reason enough to book a night or two at this 20-room hotel. Kilemakyaro’s name is said to mean ‘impossible journey’ in the local Chagga language, in reference to nearby Mt Kilimanjaro. It was originally established as a coffee estate by German settlers around the turn of the 20th century. After languishing for some time, it was revived; the main farm house was renovated to house a dining room and cozy rondavels were built, well-spaced around the expansive gardens.

Today, the first impression is one of relaxation and lovely landscaping. Towering palm trees line the walkways, and colorful bougainvillea and other flowers are scattered around the grounds. Accommodation is in attached rooms; each rondavel has two double rooms, all with large glass doors and verandas. There is a refreshing, clean pool, and the opportunity for walks, including to the base of the property, where there is a small dairy farm.

The restaurant serves a small selection of typical Tanzanian meals, including ugali (a cassava-and maize-flour staple) and nyama choma (grilled meat), plus a few continental dishes. Service can be slow, so it is recommended to place your order well in advance.

Kilemakyaro’s rooms are nothing special. While the verandas are pleasant, the interiors lack pizzazz and appear somewhat overpriced in comparison with the amenities offered. However, all are clean and serviceable, and the beautiful grounds, the cool climate (Kilemakyaro lies about 500m above Moshi town) and the Kilimanjaro views more than compensate, making Kilemakyaro a good choice for a getaway in the Moshi area.

Various excursions can be arranged, including a visit to nearby waterfalls and cultural tours. Even if you choose other accommodation in Moshi, it is worth driving out to Kilemakyaro for an afternoon, for a respite from Moshi town’s dust and bustle and to enjoy the lodge’s wonderful location. Note that the pool is open to overnight guests only.