The Aburi hills north of Accra have become increasingly appealing thanks to improvements to the road through Madina, formerly a muddy traffic black spot that would send unprepared drivers scurrying back to the relative order of the city. Now there’s no excuse not to explore the area, which has a surprisingly temperate climate and boasts Ghana’s oldest botanical gardens.

Hillburi is on the main from from Accra, and not far from the town of Aburi itself. Ostensibly a members’ club, it allows the general public to use its facilities for a small fee, and anyone can book one of the overnight accommodations. Its indoor bar is an odd mix of African art and Americana, with cowhide seats and jokey plaques next to traditional masks. Pleasant enough. Head through it, however, and you come to a well-tended sloping garden that looks back towards Accra, the view spoilt only by a burnt-out patch and a new mansion on the opposite hill.

Rooms are a neutral, earthy brown, but clean and spacious, with huge double beds, attractive hardwood furniture, satellite TV and big picture windows to help you admire that fantastic view.

At the centre is the covered Pavilion bar, which serves a passable range of grill dishes and salads – its burgers, including the inexplicably named ‘Obama Burger’, are particularly good. Below the Pavillion is Hillburi’s best feature: a deep, curved infinity pool that faces out into the valley below. It’s among the most scenic swims you can have in Ghana. One word of warning: because of the focus on day guests, the bar closes at 9pm on Fridays and Saturdays and 6pm on other days. If you’re staying overnight and want a drink later in the evening, just hit your mini-bar — the prices are the same.