Anomabo has its frustrations, but there is still plenty about it that appeals – not least its location. Right on the eastern edge of the tourism industry that surrounds Cape Coast and Elmina, it is far enough from Accra to escape the big-city hustle of fringe resorts like Kokrobite, but close enough to reach in a morning.

Of all the resorts in this area, it is probably the best of the bunch besides Biriwa Beach, with a large number of spacious, air-conditioned rooms, a beachfront restaurant in an old colonial wooden house, and a camping area for those on a budget.

Reception staff can be both brusque and inefficient, but once arrival is out of the way it is difficult not to start relaxing. You pass immediately into a large, palm-studded site, with sand beneath your feet and the Atlantic visible ahead.

Like many resorts in the Elmina area, Anomabo suffers from severe coastal erosion, which somewhat mars the beach – there is a drop-off of a foot or so at the tree-line, and the restaurant’s foundations are protected by a pile of rocks beneath chicken wire. Nevertheless, the beach is long, fairly clean and watched by lifeguards, with a gentle gradient that makes it reasonably good for bathing; though you should still expect some rough-and-tumble and avoid going out of your depth. If you want to go beyond paddling and wave-jumping, ask staff to borrow a boogie board or a kayak.

The breezy, antiquey balcony restaurant makes mealtimes a pleasure. Although wait staff are prone to errors, they are noticeably happier than reception staff – perhaps because their working environment is so much nicer – and the kitchen produces a few standout dishes, notably the grouper in garlic sauce. Weekend visitors are often treated to a barbecue buffet