There is a long tradition of department store cafes, but the quality is hit or miss. This one is a solid hit.

Located just outside the brand-new Woolworth’s in Rosebank’s The Zone shopping center, the W Cafe is surprisingly fashionable, considering that Woolworth’s is not exactly the epitome of high fashion. The cafe’s emphasis is on fresh, organic and fair trade food, which it manages to do pretty well.

The buzzy open-air seating area was packed with well-dressed shoppers, some popping in just for fresh pressed juices or (fair trade) coffee and scones, others ordering off the a la carte menu, and still others choosing to partake of the buffet.

The buffet, which they deem the “harvest table,” has an interesting combination of salads, hot vegetables, meats dishes, sides, and desserts. It’s a great option for those who don’t have much time — and considering that the table service was slow, in my case that was a wise decision. (The cafe was new as of my visit in October 2014, and it seems that they had still not fully trained the staff nor gotten up to full speed in terms of food delivery.) The buffet food was not overly flavorful and the meat was a bit dry, but it was filling and well-priced. I only wished they had paid more attention to demand, because I noticed some of the selections were almost out.

If you opt for menu items, there’s a wide selection of cold and hot sandwiches, burgers, rotisserie chicken, and pastas. If you’re there before 11:30am you can choose from the breakfast menu, which includes pastries, omelettes, breakfast wraps, and a “make your own” egg-and-toast option.

There’s also a “W To Go” window around the side, for those who don’t have time for a proper sit-down breakfast or lunch.