Tjing Tjing is that most wonderful of things: a trendy watering hole neatly tucked away, that only savvy locals know about it. Well, the locals…  and now you.

To get there, wander down Long Street, leaving the cheap bars and backpacker joints behind. Turn left into Shortmarket and look for the doorman. Flash him a smile and head straight for the stairs. On the ground floor is the delightful Dear Me bistro–itself worth a visit–but it’s the top story you’re after. The laid-back indie and electronica music wafting down will point you in the right direction.

Tjing Tjing is one of my favourite bars in the Mother City, not least for its cozy rooftop terrace with both mountain and city views. Indoors there’s a pared-down Asian feel, with Tokyo-inspired wallpaper and a bar of deep burgundy that reminds me of a Japanese shrine. Along the walls are comfortable leather banquettes and intimate nooks, while the exposed wooden beams hint at the building’s 200-year history.

At the bar you’ll find a good range of craft beers–try the local Jack Black lager–alongside a cocktail list that infuses the classics with a jolt of the 21st century. The wine list is compact, but filled with a well-chosen mix of boutique estates from the nearby winelands. If, like me, you prefer to experiment, most are available by the glass.

Upmarket bar nibbles come courtesy of the Dear Me kitchen downstairs; don’t leave without trying the crispy risotto balls and sticky Asian pork belly sandwich.

All of which make it ideal for a relaxed pre-dinner drink or light meal. That’s Tuesday to Thursday, of course; Capetonians like to let their hair down on the weekends, and that’s when Tjing Tjing really comes alive. Laid-back or lively, it’s still my favorite bar in Cape Town.