The darkly elegant Grill House in Atholl Square is modeled after classic American steakhouses of bygone days, and to this American, it did indeed convey the feeling of being in a Morton’s in New York City circa 1967.

The wood-paneled walls, exposed brick, and low light give the dining room a sophisticated feeling, and just in case you weren’t sure of the theme, there’s a black-and-white mural of a Manhattan street scene occupying an entire wall of the restaurant.

The black-tie-clad wait staff look sharp and professional as they whip up and down the stairs of the two-level dining room, which features a cigar lounge on the upper level catering to those who want to continue to clog their arteries after indulging in a massive, meaty T-bone.

Hot towels were provided before (and after) my meal was served, because they assume you will make a mess – which I did. First I was treated to a wonderful spiral-shaped bread roll, which I had to resist the urge to scarf down in one gulp in order to save room for the salad. The mixed greens were flavorful and some of the freshest I’ve tasted in Joburg. The specialty combo platter I ordered featured juicy ribs, tender lamb cutlets, boerewors that was somewhat tough, and unremarkable beef kebabs. It was accompanied by unusual onion rings: they were thin, sweet and only semi-crispy – so definitely not American-style – but tasty nevertheless.

If you prefer a la carte, steaks are served in increments of 200, 300 or 500 grams and cuts include filet, rump, New York sirloin, the aforementioned T-bone, and ribeye. You can choose basted or spiced, and you have the choice of 10 sauces (ranging from chasseur to cheese to peri-peri).

Grill House also does a sideline in seafood, with calamari, kingklip, king prawns and langoustines among the offerings. Naturally there is an extensive wine list, and the menu includes an entire page of single malt whiskies, Irish whiskies, international whiskies, bourbon and Tennessee whiskies.

I didn’t order dessert, but the selection of decadent, chocolatey, sugary items was impressive and fitting for a restaurant that is all about shameless, hearty indulgence.