Located in the high-end Firs complex next to the Rosebank Mall, this classy steakhouse can really do no wrong. I’ve been several times to both this branch and the one in Atholl Square, and I am always impressed with the darkly elegant atmosphere, the impeccable service, and of course the high-quality food.

The average-size storefront gives no inkling of the sheer size of this place — cavernous corridors lead deep into the bowels of the building and encompass seating options that range from the main dining room and bar area, the annex, the outside plaza, and semi-private rooms meant for those with large groups.

The low lights, wood paneling, exposed brick and crisp white linen tablecloths give the place an ultra-glamorous vibe, as do the wait staff clad in smart black-and-white tuxedo-style garb. But despite the look of the Grill House, it is not a formal restaurant, and you will in fact see many casually dressed shoppers and families with children (in the earlier hours of dinner service). There are also plenty of quirky accessories dotted around the walls: carved wood figures of musicians, and old-timey black and white framed photos.

The menu here is the same as the Atholl branch: dozens of different cuts of steak, plus lamb, ostrich, venison, seafood, and chicken mains, accompanied by hearty appetizers, salads and sides. This being a steakhouse and all about indulgence, there is a wine list as long as my arm (you can order a standard bottle or a magnum), and three pages of whiskies. Of course there are also cocktails, Champagnes, and various beers.

My favorite part of the meal here is the complimentary bread – it comes in a sort of spiral-bun shape, and is always warm, soft and dense. I try not to fill up on it before my meal, which was impossible to do this time. By the time I was done with my calamari appetizer I was almost full, and only made it through one of the four lamb cutlets I ordered. Which was a pity, because they were so very tender and juicy.

My only qualm with this place is that it’s so dark inside that it’s hard to read the menu! (And my waiter forgot to serve the mint jelly with my lamb, but that was quickly rectified.) Otherwise I left a happy – and full — customer. I recommend going with a date, a group, or for a celebration – the Grillhouse is definitely a “special occasion” kind of venue.