Unlike Marrakech, there’s not much to do in the newer part of Fes — the jewel in the city’s fez, if you will, is its ancient medina. But while the old city has plenty of fabulous things to offer, a decent pizza is probably not one of them. For that, hail a taxi to the newer part of town and point the driver toward Restaurant L’Italien, in the Champs du Cours neighborhood. The industrial-chic dining room is spacious, sleek, and minimal (stone floors, exposed brick painted a stark white, wood-paneled walls; shelves of Italian pasta sauces, beers, olive oils, and balsamic vinegars comprising much of the decor), a simple backdrop that lets the flavors shine all the more. The pastas and salads are solid — and the appetizer pastry layered with fresh mozzarella, tomato, and eggplant merits special recognition — but the main event is the thin-crust pizzas. Choose your toppings from the menu (quattro formaggi, vegetarian, prosciutto, carpaccio, and more — there are lots of pork options here) or just head over to the wood-fire oven and chat with the pizzaiolo (or merely gesticulate and attempt to chat, if your French and Arabic aren’t up to snuff) as he rolls your dough and sprinkles it with mushrooms, cheese, onions, olives, and whatever else you desire. The tracks from Bryan Adams and Enrique Iglesias are soothing and familiar, as are the tiramisu and crème brûlée. If you arrive before 10, the crowd is mostly expats and foreigners. But the locals prefer late dinners and come out in droves afterward, alternating between mouthfuls of pizza and puffs of their cigarettes.
Expert Review
Unlike Marrakech, there’s not much to do in the newer part of Fes — the jewel in the city’s fez,...
Unlike Marrakech, there’s not much to do in the newer part of Fes — the jewel in the city’s fez, if you will, is its ancient medina. But while the old city has plenty of fabulous things to offer, a decent pizza is probably not one of them. For that, hail a taxi to the newer part of town and point the driver toward Restaurant L’Italien, in the Champs du Cours neighborhood. The industrial-chic dining room is spacious, sleek, and minimal (stone floors, exposed brick painted a stark white, wood-paneled walls; shelves of Italian pasta sauces, beers, olive oils, and balsamic vinegars comprising much of the decor), a simple backdrop that lets the flavors shine all the more. The pastas and salads are solid — and the appetizer pastry layered with fresh mozzarella, tomato, and eggplant merits special recognition — but the main event is the thin-crust pizzas. Choose your toppings from the menu (quattro formaggi, vegetarian, prosciutto, carpaccio, and more — there are lots of pork options here) or just head over to the wood-fire oven and chat with the pizzaiolo (or merely gesticulate and attempt to chat, if your French and Arabic aren’t up to snuff) as he rolls your dough and sprinkles it with mushrooms, cheese, onions, olives, and whatever else you desire. The tracks from Bryan Adams and Enrique Iglesias are soothing and familiar, as are the tiramisu and crème brûlée. If you arrive before 10, the crowd is mostly expats and foreigners. But the locals prefer late dinners and come out in droves afterward, alternating between mouthfuls of pizza and puffs of their cigarettes.