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  1. Expert Review

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    Jul 2013 · Richard Holmes

    For years you’d rarely catch a Capetonian dining in the Mount Nelson Hotel’s signature restaurant. They’d come to enjoy Afternoon...

    For years you’d rarely catch a Capetonian dining in the Mount Nelson Hotel’s signature restaurant. They’d come to enjoy Afternoon Tea on the terrace certainly, but the dusty confines of the “Cape Colony” were a country mile behind other fine-dining options in South Africa’s foodie capital.

    Fast-forward to 2011 and the grande dame of Cape Town’s hotel restaurants enjoyed a much-needed nip/tuck. Out went the dusty colonial look; in came the sleek and starry elements of über-cool Planet Restaurant, with a sexy bar, soaring chandeliers and stellar menu to match.

    The chef behind that menu is Rudi Liebenberg, who manages to combine modern influences and presentation without leaving the rich culinary roots of the Cape behind. Local produce is king here, with Liebenberg touting “respect for the ingredients” as a guiding principle of dishes that rarely feel over-complicated. Kabeljou fish comes fresh from sustainable farms and is presented on squid-ink ravioli, poultry is pasture-reared and brimming with traditional Malay spices, salmon trout arrives from winelands waters, while oysters from the icy West Coast are shucked and served with a salad of fine onions and pickled carrot.

    My advice though? Ignore the a la carte menu and page to the “Journey” set-menus, where seasonal themes are explored in well-priced four- and five-course options. Planet is also renowned for its vegan and vegetarian set menus, which is just as well as there are no meat-free mains on the a la carte.

    The wine list is an excellent if weighty tome, with a vast selection for each varietal and some excellent local bubblies. If the choice is overwhelming, the very capable sommelier Carl Heinz Habel is on hand to guide you.

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