Another night in Marrakech, another riad restaurant — la, di, da. Following the series of discreetly placed signs to Pepe Nero, deep within the medina, is akin to a treasure hunt: Go straight past a dozen jewelry stalls; take a left at a crumbling arch; jump out of the path of a few wayward motorcycles; cross through a crowded plaza; walk down a long alley; then stumble into a former pasha’s palace. But while the setting at Pepe Nero is quintessentially Moroccan — rose-laden tiled fountain in the courtyard; dazzlingly ornate scarlet-tiled bathroom — it actually has a reputation for serving the best Italian in town, courtesy of a Michelin-trained chef.

Unlike most open-air riads, the courtyard here is covered, making for a lovely dining room no matter what the weather might have in store. Our appetizer, two prawns crowning a pastry shell bursting with mushroom sauce, was unique and delicious, and the home-made tagliatelle with chicken and creamy parmesan was a respectable followup. But what’s that you say? You haven’t come all this way to eat lasagna bolognese? Don’t worry, there’s also a full Moroccan menu with tagines and couscous galore, if you insist on keeping things authentic. But whatever menu you opt for, just do yourself a favor and order the chocolate pudding afterward. Prego.