This popular family-run Greek bistro is obviously doing something right, since after more than 20 years they still draw large enough crowds that reservations are recommended on a Friday night. And it’s not just because they are located right on Mandela Square – the lively, informal atmosphere and deliciously varied menu are clearly draws in their own right.

We were lucky enough to be seated within five minutes, despite not having a reservation and the restaurant being packed. Lots of couples, families and large groups of friends were heartily enjoying themselves with wine and hummus in the soft candlelight. Tip: The glass-enclosed terrace overlooking Mandela Square is the best place to sit.

Though it’s modeled after a traditional Greek taverna, the menu has a more “international” orientation to cater to the wide clientele. Meze (small plates) are one option, but the ravenous can also choose from meat platters, traditional Greek dishes, and South African-influenced fish and chicken main courses and salads.

Considering how much I loved the congenial atmosphere, I really wanted to like the food more, but unfortunately my combo meat plate was a bit lacking. The chicken was somewhat dry, the ribs had too much fat, and the beef souvlaki was a bit tough. However, the halloumi with butternut squash and rosemary appetizer was excellent, as was the homemade chocolate mousse I ordered for dessert.

I’d be willing to give Pappas another chance and come back to take part in the Saturday evening “Greek dancing and plate breaking” festivities, which the menu warns about (plates cost R10 each!), and perhaps order one of the Pappas famous steaks (the fillet camembert and the rigonato both looked enticing).