Waiters and waitresses dressed as medieval knaves and wenches got my attention the second
I entered O Medieval restaurant in Maputo.

The medieval theme was faithfully adhered to from the gritty texture on the walls to the
roughed-up paint on the doors to the massive candelabras dripping small waterfalls of hot wax.

Then there were the wine bottles throughout, a nice new addition to Maputo’s thriving wine
restaurant scene. Just two months old, the restaurant was full by 9 p.m. on a Friday
night.

While I waited, I tried not to eat too much of the Portuguese cornbread and olives that
arrived on my table.

I watched people at the next table poring over their menus, which came on clipboards, heads together in intense dialogue as if they were discussing the fine points on a contract.

For starters I ordered apple streusel — yes, a starter — with goat cheese and a peach
pillow (600 metical or $19). It arrived warm, crispy and savory — not sweet. It was the
envy of my neighbors who I could tell wanted one of those, and actually worth every penny of the hefty price tag.

The proprietor, Bárbara Perino, said she wanted me to taste several of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Chef Vitor Turiel cooked me mini versions.

A procession of masterpieces started arriving at my table. The first was cod marinated in
old port wine with crunchy potatoes. It made me want to abandon my cutlery and just eat
with my hands.

Next came the piece de resistance — fillet steak with mushrooms in a cream sauce. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth good.

Dessert was homemade berry ice cream with chocolate — a very sophisticated dish with a simple-sounding name.

I felt the need to thank the chef in person for this fabulous meal, and made a point of doing so.