I hesitate to use the word “perfect” in relation to restaurants, since it’s a cliché (and perfection is impossible), but Koi comes pretty close. I’ve eaten a lot of sushi in my life, and this restaurant ranks up there with the best I’ve had.

It starts with the décor: the bamboo-colored ceiling beams and tabletops follow a minimalist Japanese theme, as do the black spiderweb-style seat coverings. One wall features an illuminated projection of a school of koi, which is both elegant and eerie. The atmosphere manages to be calm but buzzy at the same time: well-dressed diners packed the place when I was there, but since the front of the restaurant opens onto Gwen Street in Sandton, the noise dissipates into the street. In fact it was quite easy to hear the soft jazz emanating from the sound system and hold a quiet conversation with my companion.

Then it continues with the food and service. Dim sum is a favorite appetizer, and the immaculately-formed dumplings come steaming hot in elegant bamboo containers. Just the right combination of tender and flavorful, they literally melt in your mouth. The sushi is superbly prepared as well: our combo platter included the ever-popular Koi roses (a twist of salmon topped with roe and mayo), a four-piece tiger roll, a four-piece rainbow roll, and two pieces of salmon nigiri. The fish was fresh, tasty, perfectly seasoned, beautifully presented, and was delivered quickly and cheerfully.

The menu also features non-sushi items such as a crispy beef stir-fry, slow-roasted lamb shank, red Thai curry, and tempura prawn and udon soup.

Nothing is cheap at Koi, but you get what you pay for: top-quality Japanese food in an upscale environment. Koi also has another location in Sandton, as well as branches in Pretoria and Cape Town for those who want to experience the joy but can’t make it to Joburg.