Koi is a well-regarded sushi restaurant with several branches in South Africa. I had been to the Sandton branch and was eager for a repeat visit based on my fantastic experience there, so I chose the Rosebank branch for my second time — for sake of variety.

Though I had heard that each branch is fairly similar to the others, on my second visit to Koi I found this to be not entirely true, mainly due to the circumstances of my visit. First, I visited Koi Rosebank (at the Firs) in the afternoon, not evening, and also in the middle of a fierce downpour, as opposed to clear weather.

As the rain blew in, the customers seated outside raced indoor en masse. The staff was quick get everyone rearranged and re-seated, never missing a beat. The sudden influx of people created a nice buzzy vibe and a feeling that we were all in this together – us against the storm! The afternoon crowd was also more casual than the evening crowd, with many babies and children present this time.

Once the hubbub died down, we noticed the elegant hardwood floors, wood-slatted dome light fixtures, brass fixtures and fish-themed art. A lot of thought and money went into the décor, and it shows — but not in a flashy way.

We chose an eclectic selection of appetizers rather than a straight sushi lunch — though there are many excellent options if you want to go that route. We settled on the Vietnamese chicken wings on skewers, Asian tacos (salmon, duck and chilli), and wagyu sliders. As a layman, I thought they were all excellent, but my companion, who is a chef, had his own opinions: the wings could have used a little more time on the grill, and the buns on the sliders were a little small.

After all that was consumed and digested, the rain raged on so I opted for some sushi after all. I got a small plate of salmon roses, which were all I hoped they would be — fresh, flavorful, and topped with that delectable Japanese mayo.

Other menu items include soups, salads, dim sum, signature dishes like crispy Peking duck, grilled Scottish salmon and seared sesame- crusted tuna, and some inventive side dishes like Asian fries and wagyu-roasted garlic potatoes.

You can also pop in just for a drink, as there is a separate bar area serving both conventional wines and liquors, as well as Asian drinks and teas. Try the hot green tea — unlike most you’ve had before, this one has a satisfying earthiness that might take some getting used to, but is worth it.