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  1. Expert Review

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    Sep 2013 · Sarah Duff

    Undoubtedly one of Maputo’s most atmospheric and characterful bars, Kampfumo is a must-visit, even if you don’t drink. This pretty,...

    Undoubtedly one of Maputo’s most atmospheric and characterful bars, Kampfumo is a must-visit, even if you don’t drink. This pretty, unique spot is located inside Maputo’s grand mint green-and-cream 100-year-old train station, which famously posed as a Sierra Leone hotel in the movie Blood Diamond.

    Not many trains leave from here these days, so it’s mostly quiet – at times it feels more like a museum than a working station. Sandwiched in between two platforms in the sleepy station you’ll find Kampfumo (also known as the Train Station Bar to locals), which feels like another world altogether. It’s a small space, with a wooden-topped bar running along its length flanked by old metal stools and a small, dark dining room furnished with retro 60s tables and chairs, all decorated in a quirky mish-mash of old clocks, giant spherical lampshades and Jimi Hendrix posters.

    Kampfumo’s quiet bistro serving sirloin steak and bacalhau (Portuguese salted cod) for weekday lunches and dinners from Thursday to Saturday. On weekend evenings it transforms into a club with great live music from local and international DJs and bands – everything from jazz and hip-hop to tango, kizomba and reggae. Partygoers, a mix of expats and locals, spill out of the small bar onto the platforms, turning the station into a late night unexpected party venue – one that’s attracted celebrities such as Leonardo di Caprio, Jennifer Connelly and Christy Turlington.

    The crowd sips on local beers Laurentina and 2M or one of the drinks on the tiny cocktail menu: passion fruit caipirinhas, mojitos, pina coladas, margaritas or morangoska – a concoction of strawberries, vodka and syrup.

    One note of warning – the area around the train station is not Maputo’s safest. Take a taxi right to the station entrance, and order one to pick you up before you leave the bar at night.

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