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    Sep 2013 · Sarah Khan

    In the trendy Ville Nouvelle, far from the ramparts of the Marrakech medina, doormen attired in fezes and babouches come...

    In the trendy Ville Nouvelle, far from the ramparts of the Marrakech medina, doormen attired in fezes and babouches come as something of an anomaly. If you’re seeking the old-world flavors of the medina but need a break from its sensory overload, just look for these sentries standing guard on a busy street in the Guéliz district.

    At Al Fassia, folk oud music tinkles in the background and the salons re-create the effect of an elegant Moroccan home — wooden arches; latticed windows; a soft glow from brass lanterns dappling the crimson walls; carved marble ceilings. Here, an all-female waitstaff will ply you with refined, hearty classics based on old recipes from Fes, the culinary heart of Morocco.

    Start with the nine-dish mezze selection, with carrots, beets, olives, and chillis meant to be daubed on an endless supply of bread, but don’t fill up before you get the brochette tagine, a platter of juicy chicken kabobs topped with an egg. The service is congenial but slow, but if you’re looking to be in and out, this is not the place for you: Al Fassia is where well-heeled Marrakshis retreat for a leisurely feast, so prepare to snuggle into a cozy low banquette for hours. If you opt for a table by the floor-to-ceiling glass windows in the back, the garden views will transport you far from the blaring horns on the streets beyond.

    Word to the wise: the sisters who run the place have a well-earned reputation for serving the best Moroccan food in Marrakech, so book well ahead.

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