I have passed by various branches of this chain many times but never went in until recently. Though it’s decidedly middle-of-the-road, I have to say I was impressed with the breadth of the menu, the efficient service, and the genial atmosphere.

Though it bills itself as a Mozambican-Portuguese eatery, Adega has a little something for everyone – albeit with a heavy emphasis on crustaceans. The menu — which is laid out like a magazine, complete with a table of contents and ads – runs to about 35 pages and includes starters, salads, fish, poultry, and meat. Portuguese themes are abundant, with trinchado, chourico, solteiro, and espetada finding their way into various dishes, but there is also the obligatory sushi selection (every restaurant in Joburg seems to have this), plus pastas and tempura items. At least half the menu is alcohol, with wine, beer, cocktails, premium whiskies and Champagne obviously being big money-earners for the restaurant.

If you can’t decide on one thing, go for a combo, such as the spare ribs and prawns, or the rump steak, prawns, calamari and mussels. I chose the calamari salad, which came piled with tomato, peppers, carrot and some sort of creamy dressing, and the prawn pasta. The pasta came with a cream-based sauce and a smattering of medium prawns, plus a hint of chilli and coriander. I couldn’t really taste the chilli or coriander – perhaps the chef forgot to add it? – but otherwise the dish was satisfying, if a little bland. The salad was OK, but not the best I’ve ever had.

Adega is popular with groups and those celebrating milestones — the night I was there at least three people were having birthdays, complete with the complimentary ice cream sundae with sparklers on top and staff singing “happy birthday.” The atmosphere is festive and buzzy, but not rowdy or loud. The fact that the restaurant opens onto the plaza helps dissipate the sound, and makes for a nice setting on a warm summer night.