If there’s one thing chef Giorgio Nava has proven since he opened 95 Keerom in 2003, it’s that Italian restaurants don’t have to be about gingham tablecloths, cheese-drenched pizza and dishes no self-respecting Italian would serve their mamma.

This award-winning chef – who recently won the World Pasta Championship – hails from Milan and a visit to 95 Keerom offers an authentic taste of northern Italy.

The street-address-as-name is a good mirror of the simplicity that runs through the menu, where top-quality ingredients presented with minimal fuss are the signature of Nava’s cooking. The ever-restless chef owns a handful of eateries in the city, including Carne SA right across the road: this modern steakhouse serves outstanding beef and game dishes, with much of the meat sourced from Nava’s own farms.

But 95 Keerom remains my favourite of the two: for its romantic setting, for its uncomplicated dishes, for its consistency, for its perennially good service. But most importantly, for the butternut ravioli with burnt sage butter sauce. If I ever end up choosing my last meal, a bowl of this heavenly pasta will be it… quite likely with a glass of Italian Sangiovese alongside. Yes, 95 Keerom offers a decent range of Italian wines alongside a well-priced local list.

The excellent pasta and carpaccio can be served as either starters or mains, but the meaty main courses are well worth considering. The 1.2kg La Fiorentina – for a couple to share – is grilled simply with olive oil and rosemary and sliced off the bone. It’s outstanding. The same goes for the slow-cooked springbok and grilled Karoo lamb chops; both sourced from Giorgio’s own farm. And if you don’t order the chocolate fondant and an espresso to finish? Well, you’ll be missing out.