The fly-fishing wasn’t going too well. So far I’d caught two bushes and now I’d snagged a rock. Charmingly patient Elias Ncongwane unhooked me and showed me again the flick-swish wrist movement that’s the key to catching trout.

Finally I admitted defeat, handed Elias my rod and picked up a mountain bike, whizzing down a path and grinning with delight to be cycling for the first time in decades.

Walkersons Hotel in Dullstroom is a great place to rediscover such mini-adventures. It sits in splendid isolation in the rolling hills of Mpumalanga in South Africa, and it’s a handy stopping-off point on the journey from Johannesburg to the Kruger National Park. It’s also popular for weekends out of town, reached in under three hours, but a world away in pace and serenity.

Dullstroom is famous for trout fishing, but thankfully it’s not compulsory. Nor is hiking to the top of the nearest hill, although it’s worth it for the glorious views.

Walkersons was built in 1993 by Howard and Ingrid Walker, who felt the area had a Scottish tinge with its trout, its hills and the early mornings mists. So they built the place of stone and sturdy wood like a Scottish manor, and at night the staff dons tartan kilts.

A reminder that we’re in South Africa comes when you try the wine, with a walk-in wine cellar stocked with some of the country’s finest. The food and wine pairing dinners are delicious, and every night you can indulge in a 5-star, five-course dinner with dishes like duck and black cherry, lobster, a trio of trout and sweet ravioli.

Walkersons is now owned by Geoff Engel and Dandre Lerm, who have kept the sophisticated air but introduced lighter dining options too. Lunch or high tea on the terrace is lovely, with fabulous views and attentive service.

My suite had elegant fuss-free décor, a vast bed, indoor and outdoor showers and a veranda. Another treat is the Amani Spa, where a massage eased my muscles after some energetic hiking.

Ah, the joys of country living.