The only hotel in Victoria Falls to make the Condé Nast Traveler Gold List, the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is an impressive thatch-and-timber masterpiece perched on a hill overlooking a watering hole and a semi-arid landscape of baobab, teak and Mopani trees. Warthogs graze on the front lawn and a dancer in traditional garb greets arriving guests at front entrance of this four-star hotel, which is located about a five-minute drive from “the smoke that thunders” (Victoria Falls).

The two floors of accommodation are arranged in a row of blend-into-the-environment buildings, which branch out to the left and right of the centerpiece main lodge. Each room has a private balcony and stellar views of the unfenced Zambezi National Park below. Décor is cheerful – think bright African colors on comfy mosquito net-draped beds and soaring thatched roof ceilings with earth-tone walls. Bathrooms are modern with separate tub and shower areas, and pitchers of filtered ice water add an environmentally-friendly touch.

The main lodge is done in traditional African safari lodge style, with open-air indoor spaces that feel like the outdoors, and fantastic artwork throughout. A splendid deck overlooks the watering hole (the sunsets here are to die for), where buffalo, kudu, elephant and impala come to drink year-round. The deck is backed by a covered roof, and a wooden bar area offers more seats for viewing the evening animal show.

The second floor is given over to MaKuwa-Kuwa Restaurant, which features excellent international fare with a Zimbabwe twist – think lots of game meat and local fish – in a semi al fresco environment. Reserve in advance for a table fronting the waterhole.  There’s a swimming pool to the right of the deck, where you can lounge in the mid-day sun and watch the animals stroll by while sipping on a local Zambezi lager or refreshing shandy.

The included breakfast buffet is stellar and includes a DIY Bloody Mary Bar! Do heed the warning about theft and leaving patio doors unlocked – I didn’t and was burglarized by a group of five baboons (they stole headphones and lipstick). Otherwise the place is very safe with phenomenally friendly staff. There is a free shuttle into town with multiple stops, including the Victoria Falls Rainforest Park.