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  1. Expert Review

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    Feb 2015 · Gillian McLaren

    Watching a 1.6m leatherback turtle laying her eggs in the soft sand above the high tide level of a deserted...

    Watching a 1.6m leatherback turtle laying her eggs in the soft sand above the high tide level of a deserted beach is a sacred moment. There are only a few places in Africa where you have the chance to experience the awe of this primordial event. A stay at remote Rocktail Beach Camp gives you an excellent chance of sharing in this special sighting.

    Rocktail’s 17 luxury tents are positioned in the coastal forest of iSimangaliso Wetland area, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where there is a sense of timelessness. Some tents are set inside the forest, shaded by trees like the white pear. Dappled light falls on vervet monkeys scampering along the branches and red duikers foraging on leaf litter of the forest floor. Other tents protrude above the canopy, affording a splendid view down to the ocean. Located for privacy, designed for maximum air circulation, and to best enjoy the unspoiled environment, tent flaps can be opened up almost floor to ceiling.

    With several private pristine reefs – Rocktail is part of the Maputuland Marine Reserve – the scuba diving here is outstanding. I was thrilled to see Pygmy scorpion fish, numerous unusual nudibranchs, leaf-fish and a juvenile rockmover wrasse. A nonchalant male hawksbill turtle was so engrossed in his meal on some sponges that he swam right up to me.

    Sun loungers next to the swimming pool are just the place to read, sip a gin and tonic, or simply gaze at birds. The atmosphere is relaxed. You can spend the day in your sarong, barefoot in the lounge, dining room and bar area or on the wide veranda.

    A day trip to Lake Sibaya reveals glorious views, as you are driven over rolling hills where Nguni cattle graze and rosy-throated longclaws — as well as other unique grassland birds — are seen. Hippos bask on the shores of the lake and waterbird species are prolific.

    Whether you have had a day brim-filled with activities or have chosen to slow your pace, you are sure to sleep well and wake with a deep sense of privilege after spending time in this wilderness haven.

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