One of the most spectacular safari lodges in this corner of Africa, Ngoma is situated in the isolated Chobe Forest Reserve, adjacent to Chobe National Park’s western gate on the border with Namibia. Far removed from the chaos around Kasane and the Chobe Marina, it offers unparalleled game viewing from its perch above the Zambezi River, which provides a natural water hole – I saw a civet and a caracal in the space of 30 minutes while having sundowner cocktails on the deck shortly after arriving. The area is unfenced and animals roam freely throughout, so after sunset guards will escort you from your chalet to the main lodge for meals.

Staying at Ngoma is an intimate and romantic experience perfect for honeymooners or anniversary lovebirds. The eight chalets which are an architectural salute to blend­into-the­environs luxury African modern design with floor to ceiling glass windows opening onto the bush from mosquito net draped king sized beds made up with silky soft white linen sheets and duvets, private plunge pools overlooking the river and even outdoor showers carved from tablets of local stone.

Rates are inclusive of activities, meals and drinks. The food is delightful – breakfasts offer every imaginable option, while dinner is a candlelit multi­course affair and lunch is usually served picnic style in the bush. Safaris here are a unique all­day event with mornings devoted to looking for hippo, crocs and plenty of birds from a boat cruising the Zambezi. Afternoons are dedicated to hunting for kitty cats in the bush, and your guide will traverse the entire park doing so. While other operators stick close to their respective lodges, located around the Kasane gate, Ngoma guides have to take you across the park just to get home, which grants guests a greater shot of seeing a big cat along the way.