The elephants are the first thing you’ll notice when walking through the breezy boma­style lobby at Ivory Lodge: dozens and dozens of them playing in the watering hole at the end of the football field­size yard fronting the camp. The second thing you’ll notice is the apparent lack of fencing separating you from the giant pachyderms. It is an exhilarating magical feeling.

Located on a private 6,000­acre concession abutting Hwange National Park, Ivory Lodge is located at the edge of the Presidential Elephant herd’s home turf. So seeing up to a 100 of these gentle giants at once is actually a common occurrence. And while there is no visible fence, an electric one does protect the camp from the bush ­­ although the elephants can easily stomp over it, as they did when I was there, and you’ll likely hear them clomping by while you’re in bed at night.

Guests need not fear too much, as most of the accommodation is located in elevated tree houses, high enough above ground to be out of stomping range. The intimate bush lodge has just nine chalets, including two large family tents at ground level. I slept in one of these and loved the “glamping” vibe: there is nothing like sleeping swaddled in blankets, under a mess of mosquito netting, on a proper bed atop a wooden platform floor, and surrounded by walls of canvas with flaps you can leave open at night. All chalets have en-suite baths, but hot water is only available during certain times of the day (it is heated over a fire).

My favorite part about Ivory is the “hide.” Located down a well­lit path from the main lodge, right at the edge of the watering hole, sitting there allows you to get so close to the elephants (and whatever else is having a drink that day) that they can touch you with their trunk should they choose to. A juvenile male did this to me when I was in the hide alone one night, sipping an Amurula.

Rates at Ivory include all meals – the food was delicious. Alcohol and activities like game drives, walking safaris and visits to the Painted Dog Conservancy are extra. Ivory Lodge is located at the extreme southern end of Hwange on the side closest to Bulawayo – you will see a sign from the main Bulawayo­Victoria Falls Road. From here it is just 2km down a dirt road (fine with a high clearance 2WD car). Transport can be arranged from Victoria Falls.