Hwange Safari Lodge is looking a little shabby these days, which is not entirely its fault since Zimbabwe tourism is only beginning to pick up after a long period of decline. But considering the property is owned by the same luxury group that runs the Victoria Falls Hotel, it should be eligible for a much needed re-do. Still, if you want to experience Hwange National Park and can’t afford the more expensive private lodges, this is one of the only places to stay, and remains a better bet for mid-range travelers than the government operated facilities inside the park.

Located on a private reserve adjacent to the park, the three-star property has 100 homey rooms and suites in one motel style building. Furniture is outdated and the bathrooms can be hit or miss, but the bed was comfortable. Plus the rooms are clean and let in lots of light and many have balconies facing the waterhole.

The grounds and public areas are a step up. I especially liked the main lodge, which feels almost mid century modern, and features floor to ceiling glass windows on two sides and a curvaceous frame. The swimming pool also faces the waterhole making it entirely feasible to see an elephant while splashing about.

There are two onsite restaurants – a formal dining room and the open-air tables around the pool. Three meals per day are served, but unlike many safari lodges, which are usually full board, only breakfast is included in the room rate here. The food gets mixed reviews and not all menu options are always available. The bonfire dinners are a highlight, however, if enough other guests are booked in (otherwise food options can be limited). These take place at long communal tables set up on the lawn near the waterhole and next to a bonfire and feature a big bush buffet. Meat, especially game, plays a large role, however, making it less appealing to vegetarians.

Game drives costs $35 per person and go out twice per day. Night drives can also be arranged, and these are also worth doing as you see quite different animals after dark. It is worth paying to enter the park, as the number of animals found outside in the vicinity of Hwange Safari Lodge, can be limited. Note that you will be charged an extra $20 per person per day to enter the national park.

The lodge also has conference facilities that cater for groups up to 100, and free Wi-Fi.