The syrupy golden afternoon light was creeping slowly through the wide streets of Calvinia. It is sunset and the Hantam Mountains behind this town in the Northern Cape is coarse and textured with shadows. Calvinia is the largest town in this Namakwa Region of South Africa and in the best area for stargazing.

The Hantam Huis is a complex of historical buildings in the centre of Calvinia — about 400km from both Cape Town and Upington. Tiny labourer cottages, a Victorian house and national monuments have been restored and converted into accommodation units.

Furnished with original pieces as well as modern amenities such as air-conditioning and satellite TV, the choice of beds is vast. Couples wanting privacy can opt for  a luxury suite in the Dorpshuis, guests needing a bit more comfort will love Annie’s Place, and families who want to cater their own meals can choose Hantam or Rebunie — each with lounge and full kitchen.

A hearty breakfast is included in most of the accommodation rates and includes traditional delicacies: freshly baked bread, home-made jams and skilpadjies — lambsliver wrapped in fat and pan-fried. Vegetarians are well-catered for.

Calvinia is the centre of South Africa’s sheep-producing region and lamb dishes are seen on all menus in town. Hantam Huis also serves traditional meals such as green bean stew, chicken pie and bobotie. Suppers are expensive, and equally good fare can be had at some other restaurants in town. The reception/restaurant is in the main road and accommodation is scattered nearby — within walking distance of the Hantam Huis restaurant.

Serving mostly travellers between Cape Town and the Kgalagadi, all units have safe and spacious parking and can offer a packed breakfast for those wanting to leave early. Service is friendly and jovial and units are clean and welcoming. Hantam Huis is an overnight stay rather than a destination, but spend an hour or so in the central restaurant/museum for an insight into rural life in the 1800’s. The town has an interesting museum and some hiking routes up the mountains and may warrant staying an extra night.