In a city full of big business hotels with over a hundred rooms, Duqueza de Connaught, a small, charming guesthouse, is a perfect alternative if you’re looking for a more homely place to stay.

There are only eight rooms in lovely old green and white double-storey house, which is shaded by palm trees and tropical lush foliage, and has a quiet backyard with a pool and loungers for whiling away hot afternoons. Rooms are spacious, bright and airy, and simply but stylishly furnished with white linen and wooden furniture and bare walls. They also feature air conditioning, a satellite TV, a fridge and a kettle with tea and coffee. Bathrooms are on the small side, but spotless and with toiletries and slippers. My room had a big wooden balcony overlooking the street – a lovely spot for drinking morning coffee and watching the city come to life.

The guesthouse’s location couldn’t be better, especially if you don’t have a car (although there is a driveway with a security guard if there is one), situated on Julius Nyerere Street, across the road from the modern Polana Shopping Centre and a few metres from several good restaurants – Piri Piri (for delicious spicy grilled chicken), Nautilus (a café that has great pasteis de nata – Portuguese custard tarts), Bel Piatto (for excellent Italian food, especially homemade pasta), and Manjar dos Deuses (upmarket, superb food) and Mundos, a lively pub with the city’s best pizza. If you’re after peace and quiet, request a room at the back of the house, as rooms one and two at the front look onto the street and are fairly noisy, especially on weekend evenings.

My only complaint is that staff members were decidedly unfriendly and unhelpful, and there were communication issues as their English wasn’t great. It would have been nice to have had a warmer welcome to match the homeliness of the accommodation.