&Beyond Benguerra is transitioning from a rustic chic forest lodge to a hip, Arabic-influenced piece of paradise. Its ten beachfront casitas occupy green swathes of vegetation on Benguerra Island, between the ocean and the stars. At night, fairy lights illuminate the cute pathways between the villas and the main lodge, where the smell of saltwater mingles with the freshness of the Eucalyptus trees. There’s an indoor and outdoor garden restaurant, as well as tables planted in the sand come supper time, and a colonial-esque bar stocked with gins, rums, cold beer and wine. This is one of the more rustic places to stay on the islands; think raw luxury and a natural feel rather than manicured perfection.

Guests are granted their own butlers, and they might as well be magic genies who can make all your wishes come true. They’ll graciously bring breakfast, evening cocktails, and set up romantic picnics at your request. The kind staff at &Beyond Benguerra can arrange all the usual activities, including snorkeling, diving, Dhow cruises, and island drives, but the lodge is famous for its horse riding. A trainer from Mozambique Horse Safari is permanently on-site to lead riding trips along the beaches, into the sand dunes, and around the island. The trips suit beginners as well as more advanced riders, and can be tailored to an individual’s skill level. Don’t miss the chance to go “swimming” with the horses; it’s an unforgettable experience that involves riding bareback knee-deep (wear your swimsuit) into the Indian Ocean.

The casitas all have huge king beds, rustic iron bathtubs, power showers, and beautiful natural windows. On the wooden decks, you’ll find a hammock and a private plunge pool, shielded from the beach by island vegetation. There’s no air-conditioning inside the casitas, but no matter; there’s a cool ocean breeze year-round. The power, however, does go off at night, and you’ll drift off to sleep in the pitch black – and stumble blind to the bathroom. The food is lovely; home cooking at its best. We were served butternut squash soup with ginger and crème fraiche, a hunk of foccacia, Mozambican peri-peri shrimp, and a divine apple tempura dessert, drizzled with caramel sauce. We ate under the stars, soft sand beneath our feet, thinking that &Beyond Benguerra is a truly beautiful place to spend a night.